men's wear

Inspired by Kehinde Wiley’s exploration of African-American identity through the use of classical Western portraiture, I began comparing historical garments with contemporary pop culture fashion. I asked myself: which eras should I turn to in order to explore clothing as a symbol?

Wiley’s use of decorative patterns and symbolic backgrounds—rooted in cultural identity and meaning—led me to search for a period where patterns, colors, and garments carried strong symbolic weight.

Queen Elizabeth I came to mind immediately. Her wardrobe was rich in symbolism and allegory. Each detail in her clothing conveyed power, control, and intention.

In parallel, I researched African-American streetwear in the 1990s—a period of cultural and stylistic flourish, especially within the worlds of hip-hop and gangsta rap. There, I found a surprising connection to the queen.

One of the most prominent features of 90s street fashion was the use of monogrammed logos from luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Wearing these logos was a visual signal—an entry point into a world associated with wealth, power, and high status. Much like Queen Elizabeth’s royal symbols, these branded patterns spoke of status and dominance.

In both cases, garments functioned as status symbols—tools through which the wearer could project, claim, or even transform their social position.